'Tree'mendous fun facts: Earth Day 2016 - The importance of trees

The entire theme of Earth day 2016 revolves around the importance of trees. Most of the time we take trees for granted, and never quite realize the importance of trees in our lives.

Here are some valuable and important facts about trees:

1. Trees Produce Oxygen – we can simply not live if there were no trees
2. Trees play an essential role in environmental sustainability.
3. It helps with the fight of climate change by absorbing carbon dioxide and other pollutants from the air.
4. They prevent erosion and clean the water.
5. Trees provide home to surrounding habitat, not to mention the nutritional value their fruits have to offer.

Some more facts...a little bit more on a lighter note.

6. It can be used as cover when being chased by a lion or elephant – usually lions do not climb trees. When out walking in big five game areas, the chances are good that you might run into one of the big 5. If you are surrounded by trees, then the best option would be to look for the closest tree and seek hiding. You might have some trouble when encountering a leopard.

7. When sleeping in the wilderness, there is no better roof for the night, than to sleep under a tree.

8. It serves as camouflage when faced with an elephant on foot – situational awareness is key during on foot guiding. Trees can become an important cover when faced with dangerous game.

9. An elephant keeps busy by pushing over some trees. According to the EcoLibrary “many ecologists believe that by frequently pushing over trees, elephants help keep savannas as open habitats, so that they do not grow up into more dense woodlands”

10. It creates shade for the lazy cat specie, the shade of a tree becomes a relieve during hot summer days

11. Trees make for beautiful photos

We must take it upon ourselves to look after our planet. Preserve the earth and we all will secure a green future for ourselves and our children. Let’s all celebrate Earth Day. Not only on 22 April, but every single day of our lives

Happy Earth day 2016!

Fascinating facts: Matabele ants

Matabele or hissing ants are the main predators of termites. They get their name from the Matabele tribe who are an offshoot of the Zulus. Much like the Matabele people of old, the Matabele ants attack in raiding parties and then carry off the spoils of the subdued tribe. In the video we can see an army of matabele ants raiding a termite colony. If you watch closely, the seemingly chaotic frenzy is actually a well planned and expertly carried out attack!

What usually happens is that a single scout will locate a potential food source and then lay a pheromone trail which the raiding party, often marching 2 to 10 abreast in a column that can extend in excess of 2 meter long, follows.  When the attack takes place it appears that some of the Matabele ants rush in and drag out the larva of the termites, or the termites themselves, while others sting them (which paralyzes them) and then carry them off to their own colonies as food. Incredible!

Blogger: Vaughn du Plooy

FINALLY SOME RAIN

Makuleke got its first taste of some decent rain last week and almost instantly the bush transformed into a completely different place. It is incredible how just a small injection of nature's life giving nectar can have such a profound affect on not only nature's physical appearance but it's mood as well!

It is almost as if every animal is walking with a bit more of a spring in their step, every bird singing with a bit more enthusiasm, every bug scurrying around with a bit more intent and all the plants have just simply come alive! 

The immediate impact that rain has on an ecosystem is of course incredible, but have you ever thought about what is IN a drop of rain? We know that rain is water and water is made up of hydrogen and oxygen atoms, but, in order for a rain drop to form it needs a nuclei. A small partical right in the middle around which the water can cling to in order to form a rain drop. This nuclei can be a small spec of dust or even pollen.

A rain drop, however, contains much more than just a few molecules of water and a nuclei. It contains hope, potential and promise. Water is the universal solvent in which all the processes of life take place. Contained within the perfectly spherical ball of a glistening rain drop is the power to give life, restore strength and wash away the dust of past worries and stress. Isn't nature incredible!?

Blog and photo by Vaughn du Plooy

Show Stoppers

EcoTraining is about the small things, we all know this, and we truly believe it.  The mechanisms evolved over millennia by the coexistence of organisms know no bounds:  the relationship between figs and their wasp pollinators, the unique adaptations of an ant-lion larva to locate its prey and the fascinating behaviour exhibited by the polyandrous African Jacana are just some of the majesties awaiting a potential student on one of our courses.  That being said, nothing beats witnessing interactions between Africa’s heavy hitters, the big cats!

It’s a bit like buying a car: we know that we should spend our money on a nice safe and reliable family car with good fuel economy, but most of us would give our right arm to own an Aston Martin or Bugatti!  There is just something about them. The cats are no different.  They are the aces up the sleeve of the bush poker player, and the Mecca for any safari-goer!

What happens in the bush under the cloak of darkness is a mystery to most, but occasionally the nocturnal exploits of these key players transcend the dawn and we are able to view some unique events unfold.  Lions and leopards are mortal enemies.  Countless generations have fought this war; a war where both sides have their special weapons.  The lions have strength both in physicality and in numbers, but what the leopard lacks in this department it makes up with guile, agility and stealth.  Both will kill each other, especially their offspring, and most young cubs succumb to predation by one of their carnivorous cousins.

For a mother leopard nurturing a cub, a run-in with lions usually spells curtains, but lighting reactions and unparalleled tree climbing abilities might just be enough to save them.  By the time we arrived at the sighting, we found a majestic leopardess patrolling the treetops whilst her nemeses circled below.  Her footing was sure, and she almost mocked the comical attempts of the young lions far below her as they tried to scale the vertical trunk to reach her.  She spat and growled, but knew better than to antagonize her much larger relatives.  Her lightweight frame allowed her to control the canopy, but youth knows no bounds, and time and time again, the young lions tried their luck.  This made for some great viewing as their facial expressions matched their frustrations as their powerful limbs were nullified by their greater body mass and weak wrists.  Failed attempts ended in a shower of bark and a somewhat unceremonious dismount!  As usual, it is difficult not to anthropomorphasize the events, but if a lion could ever look embarrassed, this was it!

The leopardess however seemed distracted.  Between bouts of snarling at her feline foes, she continued glancing skyward towards a nearby fig tree.  Upon closer inspection we discovered a small cub, no more than 6 months old, sheltering in the upper reaches of its arboreal safe haven.  Whilst we could hear no communication, their glances spoke a thousand words, the maternal bond felt by both easily bridging the gap between their refuges.  Leopard cubs learn to climb from an early age, and this skill can save their life.  Despite balancing 10m from the ground, the cub looked sure-footed, relaxed and it matched its mother’s aggression towards its pursuers with low growls that defied its size.  Not that the lions were too concerned. However, despite several attempts, the lions knew they were beaten.  Disdainfully they relinquished their spot on the battlefield, slinking silently into the surrounding bush as the heat of the Sun sapped their resolve. 

The leopardess and her prodigy remained in their lofty sanctuary watching the retreat of their antagonists until the coast was clear.  The female gracefully dismounted and moved to the shade of a nearby termite mound but her terrified cub remained aloft.  This female is not very relaxed around cars and whilst their ordeal was over, our ethics dictated that we leave the area to allow mother and cub to reunite and disappear back into the bush in the way that only leopards can. 

It was an epic sighting for us, but just another day in the endless struggle for survival of one of Africa’s greatest icons.  The small things in the bush are fascinating, more so than many of you might realize, but some things are truly special.  We all have our weaknesses, our addictions if you will, and mine is the leopard. To see a mother and cub in a tree, and the interactions of hungry lions below them is as good as it gets!

Blogpost and photos by Ben Coley

Tranquility

The bush is a place to find peace and solace.  The feeling of immersion in a pristine wilderness area is something that only a few of us are lucky enough to experience.  It is a place where the complications of our world disappear.  The sounds of never-ending traffic, police sirens and the constant hum of electricity are nowhere to be seen, and instead they are replaced by a myriad of tuneful birdcalls, an underlying cacophony of insect life, the whoop of a distant hyaena or the crack of a branch as a gentle leviathan feeds. 

The holistic effect of the bush is often overlooked.  People come to the wilderness to tick off their marquis animals and get their certificate of seeing the Big 5, but many will miss the true meaning of being lost in one of the world’s most pristine wildernesses.  It is a place to find ourselves, to revisit the primitive nature of our ancestors and experience what life used to be like before the advent of technology.  Undoubtedly our advances as a species have opened up doors to new places and allowed us to enjoy a more stress free life…or have they?  Yes, television and a comfy sofa sound like a great way to relax, but I can assure you all that it is no substitute for sitting next to a serene waterhole, watching the setting Sun‘s rays dance across the water.  The colours that seep through the skeletal winter trees cannot be put in words and I struggle to believe that even Dulux could recreate some of them. 

Our current crop of budding new field guides was privy to experience such an evening last night.  After a gentle walk from the camp, stopping to discuss an old hyena den and tasting the moisture-rich roots of the aptly named ‘Mother-in-Law’s Tongue’ we stumbled across an oasis.  Stretching out before us was a small body of water with no road access and thus protected from our own destructive influences.  The golden light of an African evening filtered through the clouds, giving the whole scene a magical hue: the trees seemed to radiate the light and shine it back at us like something out of a fairy tale.  Learning about the fascinating organisms that inhabit this area is one thing, but there is no substitute for just sitting quietly and contemplating life in such an idyllic place.

The students found their own quiet corner to just sit.  We spend our whole life rushing from one thing to another, governed by time and the need to attribute meaning to everything.  We have forgotten how to truly relax and find ourselves.  This was the perfect opportunity and we all relished in the chance to be wrapped up in our thoughts about why we chose to come to such a place, just appreciating the beauty and wonder of nature in her purest form.  We sipped drinks in the warm evening air and listened to the wind rustle the leaves and last of the birds say their farewell to another perfect day in Africa.  The only movement came from little pond-skaters skimming across the glassy surface of the water and the occasional bumbles rising from its depths as the unseen aquatic world went around its business.  It was a perfect moment where time was irrelevant.

This is what the bush is all about, and the reason that so many of us come to the bush.  We are all looking for something.  Some find it in a bustling city full of social interaction and technological advances.  Others, like myself, and many of the students who pass through EcoTraining’s welcoming doors need only experience this solitude once and become addicted to this purity.  The ‘real’ world can be fun, but only in small doses.  The bush gets under your skin and for some, it will change their life, and their outlook on it, forever.

Blog post and photos by Ben Coley

Ground beetles and bushveld lizzards

Beetles are one of the most successful orders on the planet thanks to a holometabolic (complete metamorphosis) lifecycle.  This means that the larva is completely different to the adult in both diet and habitat.  In order to reach adulthood, the larva must undergo pupation before emerging as a beetle (the same mechanism as butterflies and moths).  This theoretically enables them to double the number of individuals in a given area since the problem of competition for space and food is non-existent.  They have also evolved a plethora of anti-predation behaviour essential for survival!

Ground beetles display contrasting colours on their carapace to warn potential predators of their defence mechanisms.  This phenomenon is called aposematic colouration and is essential when their main predator, birds, rely on superb colour vision to hunt.  They are able to squirt a noxious substance at their attackers and are known to be very accurate giving rise to the Afrikaans name ‘oogpisters’ or ‘eye-pissers’!  In some species, the chemicals involved can even burn human flesh. 

Interestingly, there is a reptile found in Southern Africa known called the bushveld lizard that mimics the two-spotted ground beetle shown here.  The juvenile lizards show similar bright markings and even walk with a hunched, slow posture to try and dupe their avian predators.  It is one of the very few examples in nature where an arthropod is mimicked by another class of animals.

Blog written by Ben Coley

Photo courtesy of www.sareptiles.co.za 

10 fascinating facts about an elephant's trunk

1. There are over 40,000 muscles in an elephant’s trunk housing over 150,000 separate muscle fascicles (fibres that allow the muscle to move in various directions).  Humans have only 639 muscles in their entire body!

2. The trunk alone can lift close to 400kgs, yet is delicate enough to pick up a single piece of straw.

3. The trunk can hold over 20 litres of water which is why, despite their enormous water requirements (approx. 120 litres per day), elephants generally do not linger whilst drinking.

4. Elephants are able to use their trunk like a snorkel, easily crossing deep water totally submerged except for their trunk breaking the surface.

5. The trunk contains 5 times more smell receptors than humans, and twice as many as a bloodhound.  This enables them to smell water from miles away.

6. Such is their olfactory power that projects are training elephants to aid in clearing minefields in areas of Mozambique.

7. When faced with a particularly interesting smell (such a cow’s urine) an elephant will touch its trunk to the source of the odour and physically place it in the organ of Jacobson in its mouth for further analysis.

8. Elephants show a preference to one side of the trunk than the other, thus seeming right or left-handed.  This is most obvious during the wet summer months when one side of the trunk becomes stained green from repeatedly plucking grasses.

9. The tip of the trunk contains a layer of cells known as ‘Pacinian Corpuscles’ that are specialised in sensing vibrations.  This may be one of the mechanisms enabling elephants to communicate over such long distances using low frequency rumbles.

10. These low sounds are made possible as the trunk acts like a 2m long resonating chamber!

Blog and photos by Ben Coley

False sense of security

Elephants have long since been my favourite animal to view in the bush but the past three months have been a great test of my admiration towards them.  Living in the bush is an honour but wherever people and animals coexist, there will always be conflict.  Thanks to a very dry winter, water has become the most valuable commodity on Karongwe.  It is an essential requirement for almost every organism on this planet, and when under water stress, their will to survive is strong.  When the animal in question weighs over 6 tonnes, the outcome is inevitable…

For month after month, the local herd of elephants’ massive water requirements have reeked havoc on our bush oasis.  Elephants are fussy when it comes to water, and when faced with a stagnant pool of water versus the clean water in our tanks, there will only ever going to be one winner.  I soon learned that trying to stop or outsmart them was futile and it pains me to say but I had given up trying.  It had become routine to stockpile water in the evenings and then fix the pipes the next day.  We all had no choice but to accept it.

Finally last week however, the rains came.  Thunder and lightning ravaged the skies and the first downpour of the season was relished by all.  With water no longer in such short supply, the elephants relinquished their relentless raids on our tanks and seemed more content now that natural order had been restored.  We were lucky enough to bump into them the day after and they seemed filled with the joys of spring as they frolicked in one of the dams close by.  Despite my love for these gentle giants being tested to the full over the last few months, nothing could contain my grin as we had a perfect view of the herd splashing about, one even deciding that the occasion was worth a swim!  I am supposed to teach guides to interpret behaviour, but sometimes it needs no interpretation.  Joy is a powerful emotion and it positively oozed from these most emotive of animals.

The elephants moved north, back to the area they tend to spend the summer, and we let our guard down.  For days we enjoyed running water.  Showers seemed sweeter than ever and the simple pleasure of water on demand become common-place once more.  We may have lost the battle but we had won the war.  Battered and bruised yes, but we had weathered the elephantine storm!  The bush however is not without its sense of irony, and whilst I secretly celebrated the end of a long and arduous campaign against an unstoppable enemy, I was in for a rude awakening.  

I slept well that night under the soothing shroud of a false sense of security.  As the morning light filtered through my tent I went to help myself to a refreshing cup of water but when I turned the tap, I was met by nothing but the sound of rushing air (although I swear there was a subtle hint of elephant mockery mixed in with it!).  They had returned.  Like silent assassins in the night they had travelled the length of the reserve and reminded me who indeed was the biggest fish in this newly stocked pond.   Normal service had been resumed I was left with no question as to who had the upper hand in this long-running war!

Hopefully the summer has begun and the pressure on the animals will recede as more rains fall.  Either way, despite their destructive tendencies, they still remain my favourite animals.  Coexistence with nature is whole point and it is up to us to adapt and learn to live together in harmony.   One thing is for sure, whether they are causing mayhem at camp or delighting us with their aquatic antics at a more natural venue, the honour of living in the midst of giants is a true privilege.  

Blog post and photos by Ben Coley

Chinese Whispers

EcoTraining is pioneering a new venture with partners in China to try and educate curious travellers in the delights of the natural world. We hope that by enlightening about 8 groups per year, hopefully some being potentially influential people, the knock-on effect may have a huge impact on the future of our once spacious and green planet.

The science of ‘conservation management’ is a fast growing discipline with new methods and ideas being tested continually. However, most of these ideas are reactive, trying to combat problems that are already rife.  To save our wilderness areas and their species, we need proactive measures.  The simplest of these measures is education, and more importantly, who is educated about the importance of the environment for our survival.   The root of our environmental crisis is the over-population of our fast-vanishing home. 

Asia is perceived by many to be the root of the population boom and thus a huge cause of habitat loss and over utilisation of natural resources as people use them to survive.  The continent itself holds two thirds of the world’s population!  A proactive measure therefore is to educate this vast population so that they understand what the relentless spread of Man is doing to our planet.  Using the bush as a natural catalyst to experience the wonders of the natural world will hopefully increase the chances of us all working together to save her.

The EcoTraining EcoQuest 7 day course is designed to immerse its participants in the wilderness and whilst time is limited, we try to cram in as much information as possible - concentrating specifically with reconnecting to nature, ecology and of course, conservation initiatives.  Activities are tailored around such topics as symbiotic relationships, ecological roles, poaching issues and survival, and the inter-relationships between all aspects of the ecosystem, especially our own.

The last Chinese EcoQuest students recently a week with EcoTraining at their Karongwe tented camp. What better classroom in the world?  Days were spent exploring the reserve and many great sightings were witnessed, including lions feeding on a giraffe kill and various encounters with white rhino.  Situations like these do not need much interpretation as the subject matters themselves speak volumes.  For many eastern visitors, rhino and lion are just words and pictures or are associated with medicinal resources. Transformation should take place as seeing is believing and nothing beats spending up close and personal time with these iconic beasts. 

Our focus is not only on giving them a taster of what may not be around for their children to experience, but also the essential roles they all play in maintaining the stability of this now fragile ecosystem. 

The best way to learn something and appreciate it fully to actively experience it, and this is where we exert much of our energy when educating people.  This last group’s senses were tantalized on a daily basis as they tasted the sweet leaves of the buffalo thorn, chewed the moisture rich roots of the aptly named mother in law’s tongue, sampled tea brewed from russet bushwillow samaras and attempted to make friction fires.  The latter exercise is always a favourite with young and old, and the addition of some children on the last course made for a moving experience as they delighted in their efforts.  Although we achieved smoke and a blackened baseplate, fire was not forthcoming despite the blisters on our hands! 

Making fire

The group exercise was enjoyed by all and their renewed fascination of how the bush can be sustainably used was incited further when Norman Chauke, a local Shangaan tracker and instructor, fashioned some traditional traps used by the tribes people to procure food in survival situations.  For demonstrative purposes rope was used but the group also learned about which trees and plants can provide fibrous material if nothing artificial is on hand.  Norman made perfectly clear that these traps should only be used when necessary: for a man to catch an antelope to feed his family is one thing, but the relentless capture of millions of animals to fuel an organisation’s financial gain, be it through nutritive demand or medicinal belief, is not condonable. 

Norman demonstrates how the snare works

Discussions also revolve around energy flows, symbiotic relations between them and other organisms but there is also time for reflection and tranquillity.  A favourite among many is to sleep out under the twinkling blanket of the night’s sky.  The world we live in is three dimensional and for people who spent their lives in a concrete jungle of office blocks, traffic, noise and pollution, many have never witnessed the infinite beauty of what lies above us all.  It is easy to lose yourself in the stars.  It is a time to let your imagination extend to the furthest reaches of the universe and to consider our insignificant role in eternity. 

Sleep out under the stars

Waking up to the beating heart of Africa as the cerise sun shows its face above the horizon is a primal experience and for many, can ignite the blue-touch paper of environmental awareness. We hope that by the end of this short exposure to the wonders of the natural world, the eyes of these ordinary people will open up to the extraordinary environment in which they live, one that they did not know existed.  We hope that when they return to their homeland, the experiences and knowledge gained will percolate through their social and business circles like a snowball rolling down a mountain. 

The whispers of a few can influence the many, and the whispers of many can influence the masses.  This has always been EcoTraining’s philosophy and with the current state of our fragile environment, we need all the buy-in that we can get.

Educational Game Drive

 Blog and photos by Ben Coley

Achievement unlocked - 13 000 hours on the clock

It was a bit unusual to be starting a walk that early in the afternoon but if we wanted to get to Makwadzi/Limpopo Lookout by sunset we would have to leave early and without lunch. The group walking with me wanted a walk as it would be their final walk for the course, as it was the second to last day. The 10 of us gathered on the outer firebreak for what they were expecting to be a very thorough pre-walk brief before departure.

They quickly realized this walk was going to be different when all I told them was I would not be doing much interpretation on the walk. We had all learnt a lot in the month of walking and now we were going to use this walk as a REFLECTION on all we had achieved and experienced in the last month. Quintin, my new back-up and I cycled our rounds before loading up.  With a final walk “where you want, make as much noise as you like and run like hell if something comes for us” we set off for Lala Palm Windmill and the floodplain along the Limpopo.

From the first step out of camp I just felt like something was different or going to be different about this walk.  I saw everything in great detail, I heard everything with sharp clarity and knew the students walking behind me were experiencing the same.  Unlike other walks on the course I did not stop for much but just pointed out things that were of importance.  Yellow-billed Oxpeckers calling from ahead – knowing there were buffalo around, Grey Go-away-bird shouting from the Mashatu Trees to the north – knowing they were shouting at a resident Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Yellow-billed Hornbill cackling away from the basalt ridge next to us telling us there were Dwarf Mongoose there, were all things I knew the students behind me were picking up. Circling the windmill to the north, from the downwind side Quintin whispered from behind “elephant”. He had spotted a lone bull in the long grass to the east of us.  It was a young bull so our immediate reaction was to look for the rest of the herd.  Nope, just a young bull on his own enjoying his solitude.

We left him and continued crossing the floodplain to the north of LP Windmill heading towards Hulukulu Pan in the Fever Tree forest. The slight breeze was into our faces as we walked but the sun was getting low into our eyes.  I kept the pace constant macking Hulukulu in a good time.  Here we took a break and did some birding.  Tamborine Dove came down to drink while a noisy Gorgeous Bush-Shrike called from the thick forest.  An African Crowned-Eagle circled above while calling and four Bomhs Spinetails did a flyby.

It was amazing how the water had dropped in the pan in the month we had been visiting the pan.  It would not be long before it was completely empty. However this did not stop the birds from enjoying the remaining water and it did not take long to clock up a quick 40 species. We unfortunately could not spend too long there as we knew we had away to go yet so we continued west inside the forest heading towards Sandpit.

I had the feeling I was being watched so stopped and slowly looked around.  Not 15m ahead of us were 4 Warthogs staring at us through the long grass.  The standoff lasted a couple of minutes until some movement behind me set them off at high speed.  The sow ducked between two low bushed and did not appear the opposite side.  Next thing this bush started swaying from side to side with the sow coming out backwards with a snare around her neck. She was panicking trying to get away but just getting the snare tighter round her neck.  We dropped kit and charged in to free her but is was very difficult getting at her without being tusked by her.

Eventually she started slowing down which enabled us to get onto her and hold her head and tusks while trying to cut the thin cable snare. The snare had cut off her oxygen which caused her to pass out which in turn got me working a lot quicker on cutting the cable. The cable cut and off her we moved back waiting for her to up and move off.  She eventually took a gasp of air, then another and slowly stated to breathe again. Her head lifted and she wobbled around a bit but eventually found her feet and sped off into the bush.

High-fives all round, a sweep for more snares and we were off again heading for our destination. We path took us to a dried up pan, through a small drainage line into a very large clearing amongst the Fever Trees.  Once again my trusty back-up spotted elephant a mile off, this time a breeding herd heading our way. I veered off into the thornveld to the south of us and continued on, boxing them by a good 200m.

Sandpad came and went before we walked round the final ridge and Makwadzi Pan opened up ahead off us. Crocodiles lined the shores as did African Openbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Spurwinged and Egyptian Goose. Smaller Three-banded Plovers, Water Thick-knee and over wintering Common Greenshank paraded the shallows while a pod of hippo guarded the deep water.

Makwadzi Pan in the late afternoon is something to behold and I think this afternoon it was even better. The group were quiet, which told me they were thinking about the month and just enjoying the last time at Makwadzi Pan. Leaving Makwadzi Pan I headed North straight towards the Lipmpopo wanting to walk the last kilometer or so in the river while watching the sun go down.

Watching the sunset in the Limpopo, while walking upstream, is definitely something special. The fact that this was some student’s last walk and my 13000 hour walk just made it all the more special. All to soon we were at the pick-up where there was a lively game of volleyball on the go.  What a great way to end a course and clock your 13000 hours.

Thank you everybody for an amazing course and for being part of this special occasion for me.

Some inspiring comment from the Trails guide students and colleagues:

"From an elephant in the floodplains to saving a warthog in a snare to one of the best walks I had on my course…… And some “mint”  condition birding really really “very lekker”. I feel honored in being a part of it! Congratulations and I hope to be there for 14 000." Quintin Koekemoer

"Bwana Bruce

You are somebody I aspire to be in our world of trails guiding.  You have set and will continue to set standards that all will respect in the future. Many more happy safe hours in the Gangeni…….3 000hrs WENA!!!" Jacques (Head guide The Outpost)

"Bruce

Great to share another milestone with you and Dee". Sean (Patrick)

"13 000hrs! Amazing feat Bruce. So proud to be a part of it.  What a walk! Thanks for all the training." Paul Lyons

"Congrats Bruce!

13 000 hours incredible accomplishment, I’m glad I got to be here and share it with you. Not everyday you are a part of something so incredible in someone’s life.  Hopefully many more to come!"

"Congrats Spotted Ground-Thrush! I shall give your regards to the Queen and tell her about your 13000 hours.!" Tim Flavell

"Oom Bruce

Baie dankie vir “n ongelooflike tyd hier in Makuleke, did was ‘n ongelooflikke eer om saam met oom te kon stap en leer van oom af! I enjoyed everything from the ARH, to the assessment walks and so much more! The lessons learnt of life and the knowledge gained from the bush have been extremely valuable to me! Baie, Baie Dankie, en veels geluk met die 13000 ure! Ongelooflik! Sterkte en groete, ek is seker ek sal weer vi room sien, en hoop ook so!" Reinhardt Visser

"Hey Bruce

Thank you for your great wisdom and fun spirit, this final camp has really been the greats of the greats.   Congratulations on your 13 000 hrs!" Myke with a Y

"Bruce---

I feel truly lucky to have done this trails course with you.  It’s easy to see why you are such a legend in this industry.  I learned a lot and laughed even more.  Congratulations on 13000 hours. An incredible accomplishment full of incredible memories and encounters in the bush I’m sure, as well as scratches, scrapes and ticks!  Hope to cross paths once again someday! Til then, best of luck and on to 14000!" Mujon Baghai

"Meeting you was the best dangerous game encounter there was. Its been a pleasure to go on walks with you and learn from you. Congratulations on your 13 000 hours! I will see you in Feb." Sirah Shaikh

"Awesome walk Bruce! Good luck with the next 13,000 and keep that chin above the bar.  Thanks for everything." Shelley

"Congrats Bruce! Very well done! Thanks so much for everything and really awesome to meet you." Elizabeth Bruce

"From 1 bat to another, what a great achievement. So honored to have been part of the walk. Here I thought Ironman took a lot, well done! Kudos Brother." Gary Ray

"Yess Oom Bruce

Baie dankie vir al swat oom vir ons, en meer specific vir my als gedoen het, dit beteken baie vir my, did nie altyd wat mens “n 2de of (haha) “n 3rde kans kry nie. Dit was vir my “n groot vooreg gewees om tyd saam met sulke kwaai awesome instructors te deel." Phillip Snyman  # BMW GS

"It’s unbelievable to think that I get to write this on your 13000 hour milestone as a colleague here in Makuleke.  Thanks for the inspiration back in 2012 on a Wilderness Trails Skills Course and continued mentorship.  To many more!"  Andreas Fox

"Dear Bruce

I would just like to say thank you for everything you have taught me.  You are such an incredible man and you have achieved so much greatness in life.  You are definitely leaving a major positive mark on nature and people. May you continue to preserve the world and teach people how to appreciate the bush and animals and be forever happy.  Kind regards.    Sarah Brown

Congratulations Bruce.  It’s not everyday you get to walk with someone that hits 13,000 hours in the bush.  That is unless you’re a Makuleke back-up, so I’d like to say a big thank you for letting me be a part of it." Ollie

"Bruce! Congratulations! It has been an honor to be here and to have walked with you.  Thank you for the opportunity, knowledge and fun! Kudos."  Tanith

"Legs!!  It has been a lot of fun walking the game paths of Makuleke with you, especially looking at all the birds and ignoring the stampeding buffalo.  I’ve learnt a lot and am sure 13,000hrs have taught you a lot too.  Keep up the good work. Very best>"  Jake

"Thanks for the opportunity to be here.  Can’t ask for a better role model in life.  Well done on the 13,000hrs. Hope there is a lot more! Can’t wait to learn more form you and hopefully get fit with you.  Thanks for everything so far, looking forward. #Death before Thanks Giving#  (It’s a horrible  workout)." Renoux

"Congrats Bruce!! Inspirational to all guides, thanks for setting us off in the right direction and imparting your wisdom and experience with us! To many more hours!  I’ll be your back-up one day!" Michael Kirby 

Flight of the Fish eagle

What are the iconic sights and sounds of the African bush?  The honking of hippos at dusk; the eerie whoop of a hyaena under the soft glow of a full moon; or perhaps the bassy rumbling of a lion’s call as it echoes out across the savanna?  These are iconic sounds of the night for sure, but what of the daylight hour?  Birds dominate our auditory senses during the day as they scramble for perches from which to announce their intentions.  The air is usually awash with this avian symphony and sometimes, such is their diversity, that they blur into one, becoming discernible to all but the keenest ear.  But one, above all else sums up the African bush:  the African Fish Eagle.

Often seen surveying its favourite aquatic hunting grounds, the fish eagle ticks all the boxes for an icon: beautiful, majestic, imperious and formidable.  To add to this, its unmistakable shrill call has become synonymous with the African bush.  A sighting of this impressive raptor is always special but the bush likes to add to the drama at times and as we rounded a bend, she had laid on a special moment for us!

In the drying mud of a seasonal pan, a fish eagle stood proud, its razor sharp talons gripping a barbell like a vice.  Such was the size of its prize, it seems unsure of its next step and amused us for some time by comically dancing from A to B as it tried to decide on its next move.  We wondered whether it would be a little too heavy for the raptor to take to the skies with its meal but nature’s power is immense and with a few muscular wing beats, it was airborne and heading for the safety of a nearby dead tree.  Such is their strength, that 2 kg of fish can easily be carried into the blue to be devoured at a more suitable, and safe spot!

The fish eagle however seemed un-content with its choice of spot however and soon gave us a great display by launching from its perch and disappearing into the sky with the lifeless barbell still in its talons.  Soon after, we found it again sitting alongside its mate but with no sign of the takeaway sushi.  Non-migratory raptors such as the fish eagle breed during the dry season to avoid competition with its biannual visitors and will engage in courtship feeding where the male presents the female with gifts to cement their monogamous bond for the coming clutch.  Perhaps this explains its reluctance to feed at the time and it was merely securing a nuptial gift for its mate?

Whatever the thought process of the eagle, the sighting was spectacular.  There is nothing more iconic in Africa than the sight of a fully grown fish eagle taking flight from a skeletal tree.  Contrasting chestnut and white being displayed twixt each wing beat is a breathtaking moment and one that every safari goer should experience!

Blog and images by Ben Coley

Common Scents

Giraffe Flehman

Males use the hormones present in a female's urine to test her reproductive status. Many animals can be seen drawing their lips back and exposing their teeth after smelling in an expression known as a Flehman Grimace.  An organ called the Organ of Jacobson is situated in the roof of the mouth and the grimace opens the pathway to the organ, allowing the smell particles to enter.  From here, specialized receptors in the brain decode the hormones and provide the male with all the information pertaining to the urine's owner.  This may include age, hierarchical status and even mood, as well as her reproductive condition.  It is worth noting that an animal can only decode the hormones of its own species (species specific).  If this giraffe analyzed the urine from a wildebeest for example, it would not be able to interpret the information.

There is plenty of evidence to support the fact that humans used to possess this ability, and still do to some extent.  Modern technology has enabled us to see a similar organ developing in fetuses in the womb but then regressing before birth.  Our sense of smell is potentially the most powerful that we have and a mere whiff can instantly transport us back to a very specific time and place. 

Thankfully, humans have developed a hugely sophisticated, and diverse, vocal and visual communication repertoire that has negated the need for us to smell each other in such an obvious fashion!  Can you imagine the perils of the dating game without our ability to read, write and talk!?

Fact and photos by Ben Coley

Important Leadership lessons through Wilderness Trails

Most nature guides spend up to 7 hours a day in a 4x4 viewing wildlife with their guests, getting real close to large charismatic mega-fauna and some micro-fauna.

Their guests spend the rest of the safari time lavishing on decked accommodation, wining and dining and then depart in a light aircraft and view earth from above. The experience is above the ground and the guests as well as the guide’s feet, body and soul seldom touch and connect with our dear mother earth.

Nature’s intricacies, her spirit and soul are best understood from ground level via direct experiences with her. Living in her intertwined web of life, drinking her water, hearing her heart beat and realising that to live with nature/wildlife is not life threatening, but rather peaceful, real and timeless.

Great Plains Conservation decided to get some of their guides reconnected to nature and contracted EcoTraining in Botswana to set up a Wilderness Leadership Trail. The trail was 5 nights of absolute emersion into wilderness, carrying backpacks with only required food, no tents and no bottled water. The focus was “a leave no trace” philosophy. In addition was to provide the guides with leadership quality realisations eventuating to a philosophy of respect for everything and everyone as well as to enlighten them on conservation principles such as every action we have has an impact and knock on effect.

In the searing heat of February 2015, Great Plains guides and the trail leader, Clinton Phillips set off from Explorer camp into the vast 300 000 acre wilderness of the Selinda Spillway. The main plan was complete emersion into wilderness and to go with the flow that nature offers, and of course to arrive alive at Selinda Camp 6 days later.

No cell phones, watches and even toilet paper – we were venturing for a timeless experience away from modern day to day life interferences.

Little rain had fallen so drinkable water was hard to find in the first two days. The first and biggest hurdle to overcome was to drink murky and mud tasting water. This was tough for all especially in temperatures soaring over 42 degrees. We dug filtration holes and boiled water to purify and although it tasted terrible, it was safe. On day two there was a near boycott by some as they knew that we could simply call on the emergency radio and get fresh bottled water brought in. The option was given for those whom wanted, to do so but they would not be acknowledge to have completed a wilderness trail. After a long discussion all the guides decided to get over their mental block against drinking murky/dirty water and we continued down the dry river with the aim to find fresher water.

Leadership quality – there was a goal to achieve, a standard to stick to and along the way there will be tough times and stumbling blocks. It would be easy to give up, but leaders continue and get over their mental, ego and emotional block and reach the final goal, even when resources are lean.

Wilderness Conservation process – Water is life blood of the planet and if not conserved, earth and its organisms will perish.

The next process was sleeping on the ground at night time around a very small fire with lions, leopard, elephants, buffalo, hyena and hippos about? Typically most people feel the urge to burn a wasteful bon fire with roaring flames all night for protection.

In the Wilderness, we conserve fire wood as it is an essential part of the nutrient cycle. We construct a small fire, big enough for one pot/kettle and simply keep a flickering flame going all night. In fact it is not the fire that keeps wildlife away, but rather the continued movement of a human with a flashlight that keeps them away.

Each trailist took time slots of night duty, walking the perimeter of the camp and keeping the fire going. Many were scared, thinking that lions and other would surely stalk and attack us/or the night duty trailist.

Leadership quality – each person in the team has a role to play and others depend on them, in this case, the other trailists lives depended on the one to keep watch and wake the next person. Secondly, in life one should overcome ones fears in tough situations. By taking up a challenge, one soon realises that it was not as hard, or scary as initially anticipated. So don’t give up just because it seems difficult

Wilderness Conservation process – to conserve firewood, or any resource, even those that are renewable such as firewood. Only use what one needs and never be wasteful. We had our own method of time keeping without a watch – modern day life is far too rushed and we get lost in time keeping, forgetting to slow down and look and listen to our surroundings.

The second days walk to fresher water down river was very tough. During rest times, trailists slowly sipped their murky water and toward the end, dehydration was sure to set in. Some wanted to strive on, but others were taking strain. The bonding of the team had begun and this resulted in a group decision to slow down for those weakening, offer assistance to carry some of their load and rest where required.

Leadership quality – never leave others behind and if they struggle, offer assistance. Each person in the team is important so respect them and their possible weakness and focus on their strengths. Grow together! Encourage each members input to the team.

After trailing through some real hard core wilderness habitat, tip toeing around elephant herds in the heat of the day, we arrived at the permanent water of the spillway. We replenished our thirst and took a good swim. This water was not “so called fresh” as it was murky, had many hippo and elephant activity in it, but the fact that it was not muddy slight flow, made it easier for the trailist to drink.

A well needed rest was taken and off we ventured, down the spillway to our seconds night’s camp. Leadership quality = team members cannot continue on the mission unless their energy levels are replenished and ready for the goal ahead. Never push a team member to the point of exhaustion and then expect 100% effort of performance. 

We all need a break at some point. But, one team member cannot impact negatively on the rest of the team. All should go the extra mile for an agreed goal – so give a little extra! The team should support a tired member. “Help those around you, offer support as one day you may need some support”.

The rest of the trail was smoother sailing largely based on proximity of fresher water. We now had time to focus on walking skills, stories, timelessness, wildlife viewing and wilderness ethic. The bond between members was set as all were now more comfortable in the “unknown, scary and supposed dangerous environment”. It was time to absorb our surroundings.

The Leave no trace philosophy

The message in the process does not come from words, facts and lectures, but rather by thinking of

the outcome of one’s actions and then doing. Be subtle, soft and light in footprint so that what you leave behind does not negatively impact the environment, or at least, impacts it in the least.

Secondly and most importantly in this message is the psychological impact of one’s actions on others. In other words, by saying “I do not want to impact the environment negatively by driving through pristine and sensitive waterlogged floodplains has little meaning. What has far more meaning is ones actions!

Example; when you see a pride of lions walking through the flooded plain and your guests want to get a photograph, your actions will determine the type of guide you are in their eyes and minds – If you comment to guests, stating that by driving through the flooded plain is not sensitive, so I would rather not. But, as a solution, I will try to find a more sensitive route to the lions by driving on dry land, getting as close as sensible, then you have kept their interest in mind without negatively impacting on the environment = Leave no or as little negative trace as possible.

Wilderness Conservation process – The central idea behind Wilderness Camping revolves around taking the bare essentials into the wilderness and departing with as little impact as possible, utilizing from the wilds, only what is required and thinking before acting, projecting and comparing the negative and positive impacts of one’s actions and only then making a decision.

The hope in the above philosophy is that guides and people will take this message to heart and implement it in their daily lives, jobs, home living and more.

Fire making, its management and cleaning up the camp site?

Most guides/camp staff and managers simply collect lots of firewood, make a huge bon fire and in the morning dig a big hole and bury the ash. What goes into the fire at night is never thought of in terms of impact – food, plastic, bits of paper with tinfoil etc. Once this waste is buried, it contains odours of whatever was put in and within a few days, scavenging animals have dug it up and exposed not only the unsightly ash pile, but all the debris inside.

Our ethical, conserving policy is:

We made small fires big enough for a pot = had a strict wood burning policy, so that we did not leave huge burnt logs lying around and we had a very strict policy of what goes into the fire as waste such as:

• Tea bags are dried on the edge of the fire and then burnt, any paper containing plastic of tinfoil, was put into rubbish bags which we carried with us and out of the wilderness, no wet food put in fire – finish the food and do not throw away.
• We dug a small hole in which we could drain water only from cooked rice, pasta etc. which was covered up on camp break down.
• The fire had a sand base so that we could properly dispose of all ash during camp break down. The process is to cover the small fire with sand, add water slowly and mix it up like cement, ensuring all coals were extinguished. This muddy cement like mixture of ash and sand is then spread widely in the bush so as to leave no sign of a fire ever being there, or spread the ash in the rivers where is it quickly disappears.



Spreading ash and sand sensitively

• The fire place is then spread over with dry sand, leaves, twigs or elephant dung.

Lastly, before departing camp, a thorough check is carried out by all to ensure the site is clean of modern day human life = leave on footprints.

This process almost becomes a religious, spiritual process with the message being drummed into trailists minds with the hope they carry the philosophy of respect for the environment, not only in the wildlife areas, but also back home to their daily lives, family and friends.

The KGOTLA system – or introduced as the INDABA system 

As per Wilderness Leadership ethic, at key times, a Kgtola was held. This involves sitting in a tight circle and introducing the Kgotla Stick, or talking stick. The central idea is that the person holding the stick is respected in what they wish to say. Further, in respect to the person giving their message is that others should respectfully listen.

The Key for Kgotla/INDABA is that there is no right or wrong statement, there is no debate, but rather to realise that every person and organism has a message that should be listened to, and listened to with respect. To show respect, one must listen with intent, properly and without distraction.

Leadership quality - The intention of this system is to allow people to take courage in who they are and what they believe in. Further to this, is the hope that trailists leave with a more humble approach to life in that as humans, our egos often get the better of us to a point where we have blinker vision, focusing only on what we as individuals think is best for ourselves and our progress, rather than realising that we live together with one another and mother earth. We must listen to our surroundings and take everyone’s message into consideration before acting.

Wilderness Philosophy/Conservation – Wilderness is best experienced when listened to, then understood and therefore respected.

KGOTLA –The Talking Stick

Lastly, the KGOTLA/ talking stick methodology allows different people, with different backgrounds,

culture, race, colour, opinions, knowledge and stories to feel free and confident about who and what

they are.

In the remaining days of the trail we all settled in quite comfortably to our home in nature. The

process of living became easy and many trailists took solitude time to reflect on whatever they

reflected on.

Personal journeys were accomplished, many overcame their fears of the Wilderness and memories of this trail will stay in the minds of the participants for the rest of their lives. Strong bonds were made between the trailists and I’m sure strong bonds were made with trailists and Mother Earth.

History was made and all in a pioneering spirit – but Key to all was and is respect for all.

As the trail leader, a wilderness trail guide and from EcoTraining, I cannot thank each guide enough for their valuable input and participation.

EcoTraining and I would like to thank Wilderness Leadership School for the use of their Trail Equipment for this trail. Further, I would like to thank Wilderness Leadership School for the enlightenment given to me my mind and soul at a very late stage of my guiding career.

I look forward to the next trail...

Blogpost by Clinton Phillips

Photos by Lets Kamogelo