FINALLY SOME RAIN

Makuleke got its first taste of some decent rain last week and almost instantly the bush transformed into a completely different place. It is incredible how just a small injection of nature's life giving nectar can have such a profound affect on not only nature's physical appearance but it's mood as well!

It is almost as if every animal is walking with a bit more of a spring in their step, every bird singing with a bit more enthusiasm, every bug scurrying around with a bit more intent and all the plants have just simply come alive! 

The immediate impact that rain has on an ecosystem is of course incredible, but have you ever thought about what is IN a drop of rain? We know that rain is water and water is made up of hydrogen and oxygen atoms, but, in order for a rain drop to form it needs a nuclei. A small partical right in the middle around which the water can cling to in order to form a rain drop. This nuclei can be a small spec of dust or even pollen.

A rain drop, however, contains much more than just a few molecules of water and a nuclei. It contains hope, potential and promise. Water is the universal solvent in which all the processes of life take place. Contained within the perfectly spherical ball of a glistening rain drop is the power to give life, restore strength and wash away the dust of past worries and stress. Isn't nature incredible!?

Blog and photo by Vaughn du Plooy

MAKULEKE AS I SEE IT...

In this blog Vaughn will take you on a journey to the bush and make you want to leave everything behind to get that same down to earth experience he is describing. This is what he had to say:

"Tucked away in the far North of Kruger National Park, hugged by two rivers and littered with baobabs, lies a truly remarkable piece of land. 26000ha of pristine wilderness, as rich in ecological biodiversity as it is is in cultural history.

I first set foot in the Makuleke concession, also known as the Pafuri triangle, one unusually balmy day in July a few years ago. I had just embarked on a life changing adventure, a transition from overworked and underpaid diesel mechanic on South Africa's platinum mines to intrepid trails guide and all round quality South African safari guide. Well, at least that is what I thought at the time anyway. I had no idea of the roller coaster ride of self discovery, laughter, tears, love and friendship that lay ahead of me.

Looking back on an unbelievable couple of years, there is without a doubt, one element that stands out. The starting point and solid bedrock of my personal journey. A constant in a continually changing and evolving set of memories, decisions and chances. Makuleke.

Sure, I understand, how can I possibly expect you to believe that a piece of land can have such a profound affect on a person's life. I mean, when you break it down and strip it bare, it is merely a bunch of biotic and abiotic components reacting and inter-reacting, creating relationships and inter relationships and forming a canvas on which a picture of life can be painted... But Makuleke is not just another piece of land. It is an expertly woven tapestry with a beauty and complexity very rarely seen. It is a small piece of wild heaven, a big step back into Old Africa. It is a place where magic not only exists, but where you can see it every single day. Join me on a walk through the heart of one of South Africa's last true remaining wilderness areas as Alan mcSmith an I, try to shine a gentle light of understanding on some of the secrets of the ebb and flow of life and history in the unique and truely memorizing Makuleke concession." - Vaughn Du Plooy

Achievement unlocked - 13 000 hours on the clock

It was a bit unusual to be starting a walk that early in the afternoon but if we wanted to get to Makwadzi/Limpopo Lookout by sunset we would have to leave early and without lunch. The group walking with me wanted a walk as it would be their final walk for the course, as it was the second to last day. The 10 of us gathered on the outer firebreak for what they were expecting to be a very thorough pre-walk brief before departure.

They quickly realized this walk was going to be different when all I told them was I would not be doing much interpretation on the walk. We had all learnt a lot in the month of walking and now we were going to use this walk as a REFLECTION on all we had achieved and experienced in the last month. Quintin, my new back-up and I cycled our rounds before loading up.  With a final walk “where you want, make as much noise as you like and run like hell if something comes for us” we set off for Lala Palm Windmill and the floodplain along the Limpopo.

From the first step out of camp I just felt like something was different or going to be different about this walk.  I saw everything in great detail, I heard everything with sharp clarity and knew the students walking behind me were experiencing the same.  Unlike other walks on the course I did not stop for much but just pointed out things that were of importance.  Yellow-billed Oxpeckers calling from ahead – knowing there were buffalo around, Grey Go-away-bird shouting from the Mashatu Trees to the north – knowing they were shouting at a resident Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Yellow-billed Hornbill cackling away from the basalt ridge next to us telling us there were Dwarf Mongoose there, were all things I knew the students behind me were picking up. Circling the windmill to the north, from the downwind side Quintin whispered from behind “elephant”. He had spotted a lone bull in the long grass to the east of us.  It was a young bull so our immediate reaction was to look for the rest of the herd.  Nope, just a young bull on his own enjoying his solitude.

We left him and continued crossing the floodplain to the north of LP Windmill heading towards Hulukulu Pan in the Fever Tree forest. The slight breeze was into our faces as we walked but the sun was getting low into our eyes.  I kept the pace constant macking Hulukulu in a good time.  Here we took a break and did some birding.  Tamborine Dove came down to drink while a noisy Gorgeous Bush-Shrike called from the thick forest.  An African Crowned-Eagle circled above while calling and four Bomhs Spinetails did a flyby.

It was amazing how the water had dropped in the pan in the month we had been visiting the pan.  It would not be long before it was completely empty. However this did not stop the birds from enjoying the remaining water and it did not take long to clock up a quick 40 species. We unfortunately could not spend too long there as we knew we had away to go yet so we continued west inside the forest heading towards Sandpit.

I had the feeling I was being watched so stopped and slowly looked around.  Not 15m ahead of us were 4 Warthogs staring at us through the long grass.  The standoff lasted a couple of minutes until some movement behind me set them off at high speed.  The sow ducked between two low bushed and did not appear the opposite side.  Next thing this bush started swaying from side to side with the sow coming out backwards with a snare around her neck. She was panicking trying to get away but just getting the snare tighter round her neck.  We dropped kit and charged in to free her but is was very difficult getting at her without being tusked by her.

Eventually she started slowing down which enabled us to get onto her and hold her head and tusks while trying to cut the thin cable snare. The snare had cut off her oxygen which caused her to pass out which in turn got me working a lot quicker on cutting the cable. The cable cut and off her we moved back waiting for her to up and move off.  She eventually took a gasp of air, then another and slowly stated to breathe again. Her head lifted and she wobbled around a bit but eventually found her feet and sped off into the bush.

High-fives all round, a sweep for more snares and we were off again heading for our destination. We path took us to a dried up pan, through a small drainage line into a very large clearing amongst the Fever Trees.  Once again my trusty back-up spotted elephant a mile off, this time a breeding herd heading our way. I veered off into the thornveld to the south of us and continued on, boxing them by a good 200m.

Sandpad came and went before we walked round the final ridge and Makwadzi Pan opened up ahead off us. Crocodiles lined the shores as did African Openbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Spurwinged and Egyptian Goose. Smaller Three-banded Plovers, Water Thick-knee and over wintering Common Greenshank paraded the shallows while a pod of hippo guarded the deep water.

Makwadzi Pan in the late afternoon is something to behold and I think this afternoon it was even better. The group were quiet, which told me they were thinking about the month and just enjoying the last time at Makwadzi Pan. Leaving Makwadzi Pan I headed North straight towards the Lipmpopo wanting to walk the last kilometer or so in the river while watching the sun go down.

Watching the sunset in the Limpopo, while walking upstream, is definitely something special. The fact that this was some student’s last walk and my 13000 hour walk just made it all the more special. All to soon we were at the pick-up where there was a lively game of volleyball on the go.  What a great way to end a course and clock your 13000 hours.

Thank you everybody for an amazing course and for being part of this special occasion for me.

Some inspiring comment from the Trails guide students and colleagues:

"From an elephant in the floodplains to saving a warthog in a snare to one of the best walks I had on my course…… And some “mint”  condition birding really really “very lekker”. I feel honored in being a part of it! Congratulations and I hope to be there for 14 000." Quintin Koekemoer

"Bwana Bruce

You are somebody I aspire to be in our world of trails guiding.  You have set and will continue to set standards that all will respect in the future. Many more happy safe hours in the Gangeni…….3 000hrs WENA!!!" Jacques (Head guide The Outpost)

"Bruce

Great to share another milestone with you and Dee". Sean (Patrick)

"13 000hrs! Amazing feat Bruce. So proud to be a part of it.  What a walk! Thanks for all the training." Paul Lyons

"Congrats Bruce!

13 000 hours incredible accomplishment, I’m glad I got to be here and share it with you. Not everyday you are a part of something so incredible in someone’s life.  Hopefully many more to come!"

"Congrats Spotted Ground-Thrush! I shall give your regards to the Queen and tell her about your 13000 hours.!" Tim Flavell

"Oom Bruce

Baie dankie vir “n ongelooflike tyd hier in Makuleke, did was ‘n ongelooflikke eer om saam met oom te kon stap en leer van oom af! I enjoyed everything from the ARH, to the assessment walks and so much more! The lessons learnt of life and the knowledge gained from the bush have been extremely valuable to me! Baie, Baie Dankie, en veels geluk met die 13000 ure! Ongelooflik! Sterkte en groete, ek is seker ek sal weer vi room sien, en hoop ook so!" Reinhardt Visser

"Hey Bruce

Thank you for your great wisdom and fun spirit, this final camp has really been the greats of the greats.   Congratulations on your 13 000 hrs!" Myke with a Y

"Bruce---

I feel truly lucky to have done this trails course with you.  It’s easy to see why you are such a legend in this industry.  I learned a lot and laughed even more.  Congratulations on 13000 hours. An incredible accomplishment full of incredible memories and encounters in the bush I’m sure, as well as scratches, scrapes and ticks!  Hope to cross paths once again someday! Til then, best of luck and on to 14000!" Mujon Baghai

"Meeting you was the best dangerous game encounter there was. Its been a pleasure to go on walks with you and learn from you. Congratulations on your 13 000 hours! I will see you in Feb." Sirah Shaikh

"Awesome walk Bruce! Good luck with the next 13,000 and keep that chin above the bar.  Thanks for everything." Shelley

"Congrats Bruce! Very well done! Thanks so much for everything and really awesome to meet you." Elizabeth Bruce

"From 1 bat to another, what a great achievement. So honored to have been part of the walk. Here I thought Ironman took a lot, well done! Kudos Brother." Gary Ray

"Yess Oom Bruce

Baie dankie vir al swat oom vir ons, en meer specific vir my als gedoen het, dit beteken baie vir my, did nie altyd wat mens “n 2de of (haha) “n 3rde kans kry nie. Dit was vir my “n groot vooreg gewees om tyd saam met sulke kwaai awesome instructors te deel." Phillip Snyman  # BMW GS

"It’s unbelievable to think that I get to write this on your 13000 hour milestone as a colleague here in Makuleke.  Thanks for the inspiration back in 2012 on a Wilderness Trails Skills Course and continued mentorship.  To many more!"  Andreas Fox

"Dear Bruce

I would just like to say thank you for everything you have taught me.  You are such an incredible man and you have achieved so much greatness in life.  You are definitely leaving a major positive mark on nature and people. May you continue to preserve the world and teach people how to appreciate the bush and animals and be forever happy.  Kind regards.    Sarah Brown

Congratulations Bruce.  It’s not everyday you get to walk with someone that hits 13,000 hours in the bush.  That is unless you’re a Makuleke back-up, so I’d like to say a big thank you for letting me be a part of it." Ollie

"Bruce! Congratulations! It has been an honor to be here and to have walked with you.  Thank you for the opportunity, knowledge and fun! Kudos."  Tanith

"Legs!!  It has been a lot of fun walking the game paths of Makuleke with you, especially looking at all the birds and ignoring the stampeding buffalo.  I’ve learnt a lot and am sure 13,000hrs have taught you a lot too.  Keep up the good work. Very best>"  Jake

"Thanks for the opportunity to be here.  Can’t ask for a better role model in life.  Well done on the 13,000hrs. Hope there is a lot more! Can’t wait to learn more form you and hopefully get fit with you.  Thanks for everything so far, looking forward. #Death before Thanks Giving#  (It’s a horrible  workout)." Renoux

"Congrats Bruce!! Inspirational to all guides, thanks for setting us off in the right direction and imparting your wisdom and experience with us! To many more hours!  I’ll be your back-up one day!" Michael Kirby 

Wilderness Trail Skills Course - Makuleke consession

“Wilderness, the feathers in my wings”!

The group arrived at camp with loads of kit and after a brief on the trail ahead, loads of kit were left behind.  Packing, unpacking and sorting commenced before we were ready to head off on the start of the trail. After the obligatory 'before' photos we headed south east towards Lala Palm Windmill and the FeverTree Forest beyond.  It was humid going, but fantastic being in the forest.

It did not take us long to get to Hlangaluwe Pan and up the 'koppie' to the penthouse suite and our accommodation for the night. Our PLAN was discussed, an eco-friendly fire was built, hard wood was collected and beds were made.  Matt was out quick as a flash showing off his survival techniques and in no time had a fire started.  The weather was great, all was good… So we thought!

It did not take long for the clouds to gather and drops of rain to start falling.  This was the order of the night until eventually it was just a downpour.  Eight totally miserable people sat round a hissing and spitting fire awaiting the dawn that never seemed to come.  As it started getting light we had a quick ‘confab’ and decided to head back to camp, dry out wet sleeping bags and try again the following day.  Dee picked us up after we had a very wet slip, slide and wade session across the floodplain dodging buffalo to get to middle road.

Back at camp, wet…everything was wrung out and hung up to dry.  The weather was still rainy by afternoon so we decided to go for a short afternoon drive and had drink at the top of Manqeba overlooking the dry Limpopo.  The clouds parted and we had an amazing sunset.  Things were looking up!

The following morning headed off in wet boots for a walk.  We got dropped off close to Jachacha Pan and headed off towards the Limpopo and beyond. Cresting a rise close to the Limpopo we bumped a herd of buffalo on the opposite side and with some clever maneuvering got to within 20m of them without them knowing we were there. Ten minutes later we left them unperturbed and circled round to the banks of the Limpopo.

On seeing the Limpopo for the first time we were all surprised to see a dirty, muddy, foamy, swirling mass of water where yesterday evening there used to be a dry stretch of sand. Amazing!

We took a break on a hill next to the river and had our breakfast which we had brought along with us. After a good break we headed off for the Jackalberry Forest a few kilometers away. The forest was once again breathtakingly spectacular and left us all in awe. We stayed in the Jackalberry Forest as long as possible before popping out close to the Dakamila Pan system.  Buffalo seemed to pop out from everywhere as we walked and other game such as kudu, zebra, nyala, warthog and spectacular birds were seen all along the way.

Finally we arrived at Mapimpi Pan, which was well guarded by a very large crocodile, where we were met by Oli who drove us back to camp.  Back at camp it was a quick turn around just to pack bags and we were dropped off at Reedbuck Vlei to continue our adventure.  

We headed south through Reedbuck Vlei down the drainage line to the Levuvhu River where we found a suitable camp site on the bank of the river.  Firewood was a problem as it was all very wet however that did work in our favor as it improved everybody’s skills at keeping a fire going while on watch. We were serenaded the whole evening by two hippo who were trying to out sing Pavaroti with back-up singers Wood Owl, Water Thick-knee and the bass Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl.

Early morning found us heading north then west to Nwambi Pan where we took a break while I got hold of Dee at camp to sort out logistics and report in. Walking through the plains west of Nwambi was fantastic with zebra all over the place and impala popping out of the wood work to keep us on our toes. We took a few breaks along the drainage line at big pans as we slowly crept west towards Hutwini Gorge and a lunch break.

Close to the “airstrip” we took a break where elephants sleep and it was not long before we were also all asleep.  A short distance further on we walked into a sleeping elephant bull who I did not see at all but was pointed out to me by Chris.  To make things worse he had to explain where it was and only when it moved its tail did I see it properly. How Chris saw it in the first place I don’t know but I am pleased he did as I would have walked right under it’s belly without knowing and him probably not even waking up.

After a quick tactical retreat around him and then on to Hutwini Gorge where we took a nice long break through the heat of the day. After a bite to eat everybody’s head started dropping and it was not long before we were all asleep.  Next things a “pssst” broke the silence, Chris of course, followed closely by a hoarse whisper of ‘buffalo’.  I looked round and a buffalo cow had come round the corner and was sniffing the air.  We were in deep shade so she could not see us but was aware that something was not right.  She turned slowly and walked the opposite direction away from us.

Mangala opened up in front of us after a pleasant walk from Hutwini  Gorge.  Mangala is a spectacular campsite on the banks of the Levuvhu with high ridges behind and to the side making it an ideal safe spot to camp. Water was collected and flocculated, firewood was collected, a fire started and the kettle put on and everybody had an early dinner.  The weather was fantastic with not a cloud in the sky.

Under my watch it was interesting as a breeding herd of elephants came down to drink in front of us as did a bull elephant in musth.  Denis and Chris joined me in the moonlight on the banks of the river as we watched the elephants doing their thing in the water.  The bull decided he wanted to come have a look at our camp site but on getting close decided the bank was to steep for him to climb so just stayed at the bottom rumbling away to himself.   Chris had a buffalo bull rolling in the mud below him on duty and hyena were calling all over the place. An amazing night…

After a very leisurely wake-up and breakfast we headed off on a walk without heavy packs.  We tracked the big musth elephant bull until he went into some really thick Mopane up a gorge. Returning to camp late morning we found our own shady spots and proceeded to do some serious snoozing.

Later in the afternoon we packed up and took a leisurely stroll up to Masashiti Spring where we made camp for the final night. The spring water was crystal clear and sweet as ever. The weather was fantastic, the venue spectacular and the company marvelous.  

Something about looking over the bushveld savannah, under a bright moon, listening to African Scops-Owl and Hyena calling makes everything worthwhile.  It rejuvenates the soul and resets all the dials and gives one energy for the future.  This evening was no different and I think everybody on trail was touched by how beautiful and harmonious nature can be.

All too soon dawn arrived and the final pack-up commenced.  The “dome” was cleaned, all remnants of the fire and our presence removed before donning our packs and heading off back to camp. I called for a silent walk to give people time to reflect on what they had learnt, achieved, experienced and on how they were going to carry this trail forward into their future lives. An unbelievably quiet two hours passed as we strolled over the hills and through the dales before having to “cross the line” once again back into so called “civilization”.

It was a fantastic trail with lots of highs and lows but I think all of us came out with an amazing sense of achievement for persevering. 

I convey a deep, personal gratitude to all participants for joining us on this trail. If it was not for you, we would not be able to do what we do and live in a place like this.

Report written by Bruce Lawson, Head Instructor

Makuleke Consession (Pafuri Area) - A Birder's Paradise

Birding in the bush course: 14 - 20 March 2015

Our clients were picked up at the gate and transferred to camp by our trusty back-ups. It was warm, as only Makuleke can be, but spirits were high as we went through the camp’s safety brief and course structure while a White-browed Robin-chat was doing his utmost to disturb me.

All participants were super keen to get out and do some birding so as soon as the safety brief was done. We headed on a short walk to the Lala Palm windmill. It was hot so not many birds were out, but we still managed to see Long-billed Crombec, White-Browed Scrub-Robin, Meve's Starling, African Palm-Swift, Grey-Backed Cameroptera and Grey Go-away-bird.

At Lala Palm windmill we were lucky to see three Grey-headed Parrots perched in a dead Leadwood tree.  It was the first "special" of the trip and spectacular views to boot. We arrived back in camp after sunset and were led in by the grunting calls of a Verrauxes Eagle-Owl calling from a Mashatu tree in the camp.

After a very noisy night filled with Eagle-Owls, bush babies and Baboons we headed out from the camp on an early morning walk to Hulukulu to do some riparian forest birding. However, before even leaving the camp the birds started going ballistic with their calling. Bearded Scrub-Robin leading the cacophony followed closely by White-Throated Robin-Chat, Terrestrial Brownbul, Natal Spurfowl and the ever present Dark-capped Bulbul.

Not far out of camp in the tortillas woodland, Burnt-necked Eremomela made a very prominent appearance giving us spectacular views. Heading past the windmill into the floodplain we started seeing some open grassland species such as Zitting Cisticola, White-winged Widowbird, and also got other species such as Pintailed Whydah and our first Village Indigobird calling from a perch above his host, the Red-billed Firefinch. Passing a few pans we picked up Three-banded Plover and Wood Sandpiper. I spent some time explaining how to identify the waders apart.

White-backed Vultures with the occasional Lappet-faced Vultures were circling all over the place. 

Once we entered the forest the pace slowed from a slow pace to an almost backward pace as more birds were seen. Southern Black, Ashy, Spotted and African Paradise Flycatchers were soon added to our list. Bearded Woodpecker was tapping from all over the place and Cardinal and Golden-tailed Woodpeckers were also calling. We eventually got to see a drumming Bearded Woodpacker but it did take a neck breaking search. Broad-billed Roller and Greater Honeyguise also showed themselves nicely.

At Hulukulu Pan there was an African Openbill, Yellow-breasted Apalis, African Green Pigeon and a Green-backed Heron visible. Trumpeter Hornbills were calling in the back ground. Three displaying African Cuckoo-Hawks came circling and calling over the forest above the pan which almost sent me over the edge.

That evening we headed down towards the Levuvhu River to try finding the elusive Pels Fishing-Owl. We started a new SABAP pentad card close to the river and soon had a good total going. Birds added were Lesser Striped-Swallow, Mosque Swallow, Red-backed Shrike, European Roller and a large herd of Buffalo. The Buffalo crossed our paths in the setting sun after coming up the bank from a drink. Made for spectacular photography! On the bridge we stopped for a drink and to get a handle on the Swifts flittering around.  Little Swift was the most common species but we also got White-rumped Swift, Rock Martin and Wire-tailed Swallows. The river produced birds such as Goliath Heron, Giant and Pied Kingfishers, White-crowned Lapwing and African Pied Wagtails. A whole swarm of Nightjars came out feeding over the water as it started getting dark.  Two distinct species were visible, the Square Tailed and European.

Unfortunately, the Pels Owl did not make an appearance so we had to call it quits and got back on the vehicle to head back to camp. While turning the vehicle I spotted an odd looking log and on closer inspection with spotlight and binoculars we saw it was an owl.  For how long it had been sitting there we had no idea. Great views were had by all through the scope and we left with a lot more bounce in our step... We had a 2 hour list of just over 45 species which is not bad considering for 45 minutes of that, was in the dark.

One morning we took a drive down to Banyini Pan for some water birds.  En-route at Madwazi Pan we hit traffic and it took us 10 minutes before we eventually got through the herd of buffalo. At Banyini we started a new pentad list which was soon way up there. The lead in walk to the pan is fantastic with huge sandstone cliff faces to the north and open bushveld to the south with the pan to the west. We had a look at the Verruax Eagles nest but unfortunately no bird.

At the water we were not disappointed and the "walkie talkies" were even speechless by the amount of new birds they were seeing. Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Stork, African Openbill, Grey and Goliath Heron, Egyptian and Spurwinged Goose, Red-billed Teal, Comb and White-faced Duck, Black-winged Stilt were all on display. Black-crowned Night-Heron was spotted and on the waters edge a new bird for me for the concession, Ruff was spotted. Rufous-winged Cisticola and Lesser Swamp Warbler were calling from the reeds below while Blue-cheeked Bee-eater flew around above them. The birds were so good it almost became too much however what did soon become too much was the heat, so we decided to head back to the vehicle and back to camp. On the way to the vehicle we heard a Greater Swamp Warbler calling and after some coaxing got to see it for some great views. A first for the concession, we finished the day on 125 birds.

Lanner Gorge is always a spectacular trip with stunning views of the gorge and new birds to boot. African Black Swift, Mocking Cliff-Chat, Red-winged Starling and Verraux Eagle-Owl were new birds added. Jameson’s Rock Rabbit was a lifer for me which brought out the Jameson’s Whiskey once we got back into camp.

Crooks Corner was another winner where we added Black-throated Wattle-eye and White-fronted Plover on the sand at the corner.  47 Crocodiles were counted on the water’s edge so swimming was out! Not that Crooks Corner is ever a place to swim.

All in all it was a fantastic weeks birding with a very special group of people.  I would like to thank the "Walkie Talkies" for the excellent humour and great fun we had in between the birding.

Report written by Bruce Lawson, EcoTraining Head Instructor

Just another day in the Makuleke Camp

It is getting hot, summer is close

Woke in the wee hours to what sounded like an alarm, presumably someone had set their time a little wrong.  However it was nice to just lay in bed and start to hear the day walking up.

A chorus of hyena calls and whoops, then the faint call of a Three Banded Courser to the eventual frantic morning call of the francolins.

Baboons sound their morning exit ritual, and start their day.  Often dispersing early to come back later in the day and wander around camp.

Wake-up drums is now 5am, with duty team starting much earlier than that in the kitchen, so the nature sounds are then interspersed with the filling of a kettle, cupboards opening and closing, chatter, which is not quite as quiet as what the girls think J

It is already light, and I walk down to the deck to see the huge fireball just rising in the east – another hot day on the way.

It is still quiet in camp, just about everyone has left for morning activity and the ladies are yet to start work.   It is the best time of the day.

A cup of tea, drinks reconciliation and then to work.  The birds are all calling, flitting around.

I have an Ashy Flycatcher nesting in the hinge of the satellite dish – has done this for the past few years, however at the moment, I think he/she is just pretending, as he only comes every few days, perhaps checking that the spot is still all good.  But eventually I will see both of them flying around and then getting serious about having chicks.

I have only once seen a chick emerge and it was a frantic flight to find something safe, a branch on the cucumber bush outside the rear of the kitchen.  I didn’t see the chick again after that, so not sure if it survived or not.

An active weaver nest hangs from the Acacia tortilis above the pathway to the office and staff area, clearly assuming it is a safe spot from predators. 

Impala, Nyala all come and wander around camp – not disturbed by anyone.

The sun slowly creeps up, sunlight filtering through the trees, lighting up the camp

The quiet of the morning only lasts for a short time, with staff commencing their daily duties, radio chatter and eventual return of students for a well earned breakfast.

Afternoons usually bring in lots more impala, nyala, with the impala especially being relatively at ease with people walking around.

This day, I was working in the office and Steve (instructor) walked past and said ‘just so you know, there is a big bull ele down the end of camp’.

I asked if it was Dave and he wasn’t sure.  I then asked if he had one floppy ear and 1 tusk and he confirmed it was in fact ‘Dave’.

I took a stroll down to the study deck and Alan (instructor) was standing with 3 students on the pathway between the Study Deck and Tent 1.  Dave was feeding on bushes close to tent 8, but in the inner circle of camp.

Dave fed for a while and then squeezed himself through a gap and started ambling towards tent 1.

There is a tree that had been previously nudged by ele’s that is now continuing to grow at an angle and effectively hangs over the path.  Just high enough that we don’t hit our heads on, but clearly at a nice height and angle to be used as a great elephant scratching pole.

Dave walked towards it and placed his trunk over the tree trunk and started to rub it up and down, clearly enjoying it immensely.   From there, he then stepped over the lower part of the tree and started to roll backwards and forwards, to rub his underbelly.   Again, you could imagine how good that might have felt.

During this time, the students were still standing with Alan on the pathway.    Dave then started to again, squeeze himself between trees to come closer, but this was the point where Alan got everyone to slowly back-off, towards the study deck steps.    Dave then proceeded to amble to the deck, down the side, to his favourite branches to again start feeding.

Everyone was now up on the study deck, with great views of this giant of an elephant, peacefully feeding less than 2 metres from the study deck.

Eventually, he wandered off, feeding along the way, leaving a trail of broken branches over the pathway and left camp.  Max (new back-up) was left to tidy up the pathway.

Excitement over, I headed back to my office, and within 15 minutes, our other friendly visitor, the Rock Monitor came walking by.  He is a constant in the camp and over the years has grown quite massive.   He often scares students as he enjoys it under the tents and just happens to come out as they are coming down stairs or on the pathways.  We did see 2 in camp for a while, obviously male and female, with the male doing lots of chasing in the nyala tree by the deck, but of late it seems to be just this big fellow.

Late afternoons, with the sun setting, the baboons start to plan their evenings rest, often with a lot of chatter and discipline.   A calmness creeps over camp as the last light fades, campfire is lit, solar lanterns throwing a gentle light over the set dinner tables and study deck.

I retreat to my deck and relax in the cooler air, and catch up on a couple of pages of my book until the drums talk for dinner.

Writer: Dee Lawson

FOR THE ADVENTUROUS SPIRIT – WILDERNESS SKILLS TRAILS COURSE – 17-22 SEPTEMBER – MAKULEKE

What if, even just for a few days, you can experience something totally unique, inspiring and maybe even life changing?

Just imagine this – the dawn chorus of francolins waking you up, then sipping on a warm cuppa to get the morning going, waiting for a zebra crossing of a different kind, observing big grey beasts from a safe distance, straining the ears for yet unidentified sounds, unearthing fascinating facts about all things wild and wonderful and ringing in the night around a crackling camp fire?

If you have a love of nature, a wilderness spirit and seeking adventure, then this is your last chance to book your place on the upcoming EcoTraining Wilderness Skills Trails course from 17-22 September 2013. Send an email to enquiries@ecotraining.co.za to make sure you become part of the bigger wilder picture, rejuvenate the spirit and help the greater cause of conservation!

The 5 nights/6 days course will be spend exploring the 24 000 hectare Makuleke concession inside the Kruger National Park on foot. It has almost no roads, has the largest fever tree forest in South Africa, two perennial rivers, 12 natural springs, has open borders with two countries and lies in the middle of the Limpopo Transfrontier National Park. 

Lessons you will be taught will not be found in any books, but will rather be hands on learning. Candidates will be encouraged to participate in navigation, planning and setting up eco-friendly camp sites, night watch and trailing and tracking animals where appropriate.

You will have an unbelievable time while gaining a better understanding for all things wild and wonderful, while at the same time making your contribution to the conservation of the natural world.

And if you are still contemplating, these eloquent words of a participant on a previous Wilderness Skills Trails course, will surely make you make THAT BOOKING:

“We all used to live in a cave

And hear the sound that nature gave

That sound that carries like a wave

That sound that we must now save

It was an ancient memory

That told me not to run or flee

When I heard the lion roar

I just wanted more, more, more

The sound is in the soul, the blood

It makes the heart go thud, thud, thud

The sound that makes your throat go gulp

And turns your insides into pulp

A visceral feeling

Inspired kneeling

Spiritual healing”

For more information, visit www.ecotraining.co.za or send an email to enquiries@ecotraining.co.za

ECOTRAINING: PASSIONATE ABOUT CONSERVATION

From humble beginnings way back in 1993, when a handful of passionate individuals saw the opportunity to provide the tourism industry with qualified nature-guides, to the leader in this field today.

This is the story of EcoTraining.

For the past 20 years, thousands of people with a deep love for nature, an appreciation of all things wild and wonderful and a passion for conservation, have attended our courses in wilderness camps across Africa.  And armed with this knowledge, they have gone on to make a difference and spread the message of reconnecting with nature in a meaningful way.

Michael Clark, who trained with EcoTraining more than 10 years ago, is currently in Nepal, training up young Nepali naturalists. 

Says Michael:

“The variety of subjects is incredibly diverse and comprehensive, and the practical element provides you with experiences that are hard to put into words. Anyone who is serious about a career in eco-tourism or simply wants a sabbatical from work, the experiences you can have on a course can lead to a whole new way of life, and provide you with memories to truly cherish.”

Like Marc Lindsay Rea, who says he’s now living the dream, thanks in part to EcoTraining who has put him in a very privilege position indeed, as a fully qualified field guide leading people into the wilderness and onto memory-making adventures.

“I have such a thirst for acquiring knowledge about wildlife and nature from around the world and I am lucky to have the privilege to guide guests through these exciting places. I thank and appreciate everybody and every company that has put in many long hours to help get me to the position I am at now. Thank you!”

Yes, we are essentially a field guide training company, training guides for the industry. But with shorter courses and excursions on birding, tracking, photography and bush survival, and from anything between four and 28 days, we are also catering to the tourist with a conscience.

Today’s tourist is a thinking traveler who wants to have fun while gaining a better understanding of the natural world. And this is where a company like EcoTraining is stepping in and creating an experience with a difference.

Like Richard Schmid from Switzerland who was born in Mombasa and spent the first seven years of his life in Kenya. He went back to the country of his birth to take part in a 28 Day Field Guide course in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.

For Richard there’s no other way to travel.

“I travel like this all the time, to go out and actually do something, on a course like this to be directly and actively involved in something. I now know so much more, my base of knowledge has broadened considerably and I’m not regretting it for one moment. We have an ecological responsibility and I think people are becoming more and more aware of it all the time.”

Through the years the EcoTraining qualification have become the trusted nature-guide training standard in the industry, giving people from all walks of life and from all over the globe the opportunity to become one with nature. We have trained all across the African continent and also in many other parts of the world.

And our wilderness camps in South Africa (Makuleke, Selati, Karongwe), Botswana (Mashatu) and Kenya (Lewa), is where it is all happening. It’s in these simple unfenced bush camps in the middle of these great wilderness areas participants truly get to experience what it is like to live in wild places. Under the guidance of experienced instructors, countless hours are spend walking or driving in the bush, and an understanding of our place in the natural world is cultivated.

Africa indeed just has its way with people. The continent’s wild and wonderful places lure people from all over the globe, to come and explore and then to return wherever they are from with vivid memories to last a life time.

You will get all this, and so much more, on an EcoTraining course.

But don’t just take our word for it. From the horse’s mouth, or in this case, Nick Baker, a former professional field guide course participant:

“The beauty of this course is the extended time one spends out there, nothing is rushed and every day one learns something new, building a quite awesome knowledge base… I miss it today and will miss it every day that I am not there. The experience is total and is built of a complicated set of components, animals, birds, trees, plants, insects, soil, water, weather, stars, sights, sounds, smells, magic…  The bush does funny things to your head. It has got inside mine…”

Candice Wagener McGuire echoes these sentiments:

“I guide because I like sharing my passion with those around me, I love seeing how the bush inspires every single being. My day is made when I see how people brighten up when they spend their holiday in the bush, how the smallest things put a smile on their faces. When I guide, I feel like I’m making a small difference to keep Africa alive in everyone’s hearts.”

THE TIME OF YOUR LIFE – ECOTRAINING PROFESSIONAL FIELD GUIDE COURSE – BOOK NOW FOR SEPTEMBER!

Yearning to break away and experience something truly life-changing? Want to understand the intricate inner-workings of nature and how all is connected? Have time?

Then book your place on EcoTraining’s professional field guide course and walk away with a deeper understanding of Africa’s web of life, a greater appreciation for conservation and an altogether different outlook on life.

The next course, starting in September, is filling up quickly and for a limited period EcoTraining will offer this course at a special rate (terms and conditions apply).

To join in the adventure of a life time and book one of those last remaining places, send an email to enquiries@ecotraining.co.za.

This course is not only for people wishing to enter the industry as field guides, but for anyone who wants to increase their knowledge of the African bush. 

For almost one year you will be exposed to diverse ecological and geological terrains, landscapes, wildlife species and so much more at our wilderness camps in places like Makuleke, Karongwe, Selati (South Africa) and Mashatu (Botswana).

After six months of theoretical and practical training, the lodge placement period will follow where interaction with guests from all over the world will certainly give you more memories to bank.  At the end of the year you will therefore not only be qualified, but will also have gained practical experience in the lodge industry. 

But don’t just take our word for it. From the horse’s mouth, or in this case, Nick Baker, a former professional field guide course participant:

“I was privileged to work in the Wilderness Pafuri camp in the Kruger National Park. Most of the employees are from the local Makuleke tribe and in many ways it felt like working in an extension of the local community with all the complexity, disasters, fun and frolics that that involved. It was an eye opener to say the least to be dropped head first into this, straight in to guiding paying guests, negotiating the workings of the lodge and above all trying to contribute something useful to the mix. My time there was awesome, not always easy but overall awesome.”

Candice Wagener McGuire echoes these sentiments:

“It’s not because life is like a holiday every day, even with the long shifts in tow. I guide because I like sharing my passion with those around me, I love seeing how the bush inspires every single being. My day is made when I see how people brighten up when they spend their holiday in the bush, how the smallest things put a smile on their faces. When I guide, I feel like I’m making a small difference to keep Africa alive in everyone’s hearts.”

These first-hand accounts will now most certainly make you send that email to enquiries@ecotraining.co.za to book a place on the next year course in September. You won’t regret it!

And in case you were still wondering, a final word from Nick...

“The beauty of this course is the extended time one spends out there, nothing is rushed and every day one learns something new, building a quite awesome knowledge base… I miss it today and will miss it every day that I am not there. The experience is total and is built of a complicated set of components, animals, birds, trees, plants, insects, soil, water, weather, stars, sights, sounds, smells, magic…  The bush does funny things to your head. It has got inside mine…”