Watch out...there is a hippo in the road.

Ben Coley with the hippo in the background

While out on a drive at Karongwe, the game drive vehicle came across a bit of an unexpected roadblock. Ben Coley describes the encounter in more detail.

"At the time of the detour, we were behind  elephants on the road so I tried to take a different road to get in front of them.  It had rained heavily in the morning and the reserve was dotted with puddles so I thought nothing of the pool of water ahead of us.  As my front wheels touched water, something moved.  We thought it was a terrapin until a huge shape loomed up, arched its neck and opened its mouth wide to reveal some formidable weaponry!  It turns out that this puddle was already occupied by a hippo!  I would like to thank the hippo for saving my blushes as without it causing me to stop, we would have no doubt become stuck as the ‘puddle’ must have been a meter deep!  Another great of example that in the bush, you never know what is around the next corner!"

Show Stoppers

EcoTraining is about the small things, we all know this, and we truly believe it.  The mechanisms evolved over millennia by the coexistence of organisms know no bounds:  the relationship between figs and their wasp pollinators, the unique adaptations of an ant-lion larva to locate its prey and the fascinating behaviour exhibited by the polyandrous African Jacana are just some of the majesties awaiting a potential student on one of our courses.  That being said, nothing beats witnessing interactions between Africa’s heavy hitters, the big cats!

It’s a bit like buying a car: we know that we should spend our money on a nice safe and reliable family car with good fuel economy, but most of us would give our right arm to own an Aston Martin or Bugatti!  There is just something about them. The cats are no different.  They are the aces up the sleeve of the bush poker player, and the Mecca for any safari-goer!

What happens in the bush under the cloak of darkness is a mystery to most, but occasionally the nocturnal exploits of these key players transcend the dawn and we are able to view some unique events unfold.  Lions and leopards are mortal enemies.  Countless generations have fought this war; a war where both sides have their special weapons.  The lions have strength both in physicality and in numbers, but what the leopard lacks in this department it makes up with guile, agility and stealth.  Both will kill each other, especially their offspring, and most young cubs succumb to predation by one of their carnivorous cousins.

For a mother leopard nurturing a cub, a run-in with lions usually spells curtains, but lighting reactions and unparalleled tree climbing abilities might just be enough to save them.  By the time we arrived at the sighting, we found a majestic leopardess patrolling the treetops whilst her nemeses circled below.  Her footing was sure, and she almost mocked the comical attempts of the young lions far below her as they tried to scale the vertical trunk to reach her.  She spat and growled, but knew better than to antagonize her much larger relatives.  Her lightweight frame allowed her to control the canopy, but youth knows no bounds, and time and time again, the young lions tried their luck.  This made for some great viewing as their facial expressions matched their frustrations as their powerful limbs were nullified by their greater body mass and weak wrists.  Failed attempts ended in a shower of bark and a somewhat unceremonious dismount!  As usual, it is difficult not to anthropomorphasize the events, but if a lion could ever look embarrassed, this was it!

The leopardess however seemed distracted.  Between bouts of snarling at her feline foes, she continued glancing skyward towards a nearby fig tree.  Upon closer inspection we discovered a small cub, no more than 6 months old, sheltering in the upper reaches of its arboreal safe haven.  Whilst we could hear no communication, their glances spoke a thousand words, the maternal bond felt by both easily bridging the gap between their refuges.  Leopard cubs learn to climb from an early age, and this skill can save their life.  Despite balancing 10m from the ground, the cub looked sure-footed, relaxed and it matched its mother’s aggression towards its pursuers with low growls that defied its size.  Not that the lions were too concerned. However, despite several attempts, the lions knew they were beaten.  Disdainfully they relinquished their spot on the battlefield, slinking silently into the surrounding bush as the heat of the Sun sapped their resolve. 

The leopardess and her prodigy remained in their lofty sanctuary watching the retreat of their antagonists until the coast was clear.  The female gracefully dismounted and moved to the shade of a nearby termite mound but her terrified cub remained aloft.  This female is not very relaxed around cars and whilst their ordeal was over, our ethics dictated that we leave the area to allow mother and cub to reunite and disappear back into the bush in the way that only leopards can. 

It was an epic sighting for us, but just another day in the endless struggle for survival of one of Africa’s greatest icons.  The small things in the bush are fascinating, more so than many of you might realize, but some things are truly special.  We all have our weaknesses, our addictions if you will, and mine is the leopard. To see a mother and cub in a tree, and the interactions of hungry lions below them is as good as it gets!

Blogpost and photos by Ben Coley

The day of the jackal

We at EcoTraining spend countless hours pouring over books written by a variety of experts to try and explain animal behaviour to prospective field guides.  We have a huge wealth of knowledge at our finger tips with which to glean the plethora of information documented on some of the most iconic animals in the world.  However, despite Man’s propensity of recording field data from observations, animals do not always read the text books and often we are made to look foolish as they defy the preconceptions we have attributed to them!

The other day, a report about a male lion that had killed a bush pig, came through on the radio.  We rushed to the scene of the crime already deep in explanation as to the feeding habits of Africa’s apex terrestrial predator, looking forward to watching the ferocious feline demolishing his prey.  When we arrived at the location we found the bushpig completely intact, not even opened, and no lion to be seen.  Often predators will kill other predators as a means of eliminating competition and these victims are usually not consumed as they were removed rather than killed for food, but there was no viable reason that a cache of meat such as this would be left alone.  It was a gentle reminder from the bush that no matter how long you spend out here watching the daily lives of its inhabitants, nothing is ever set in stone!

I can offer no satisfactory explanation as to why the lion chose to leave his prize but nothing is left to waste in the bush for long.  Throughout the afternoon, the vultures arrived and began to consume the carcass, comically scrapping and flapping around as they argued over feeding rights.  We returned to the site at the end of our night drive hoping that the smell of decomposing flesh had wafted its way to the sensitive nostrils of the resident hyena clan.  It seemed however that the hyenas’ had also turned their nose up at the meal but not so a small group of side-striped jackals!

This diminutive predator is often overlooked in the food chain but plays a hugely important role in cleaning up the bush.  It is not as gregarious as the more common black backed jackal and thus their presence was a welcome sight to us all.  The temptation of a free meal overrode their normal normally nervous disposition and we were rewarded with a wonderful sighting as they wrestled with their porky prize! 

Side striped jackals are omnivores and can get their water requirements from eating fruits which enable them to be very successful in more harsh terrains.  They are also efficient hunters and regularly take small mammals, birds and even arthropods but an unattended carcass was a bonanza for them to enjoy.  We stayed in the sighting long after dark enjoying their antics as individuals argued over the choice cuts, prompting a long discussion over their feeding habits, role in the ecosystem and why the lion chose to leave its kill. 

For me, the true beauty of working in the bush is the fact that nothing is ever set in stone.  For a lion to pass up an opportunity to feed is unusual, but its decision benefited a whole host of less powerful members of the bushveld community.  Rules are made to be broken and trying to fathom the rationale behind these incidents is what makes this vocation so fascinating.  Variety is the spice of life, and we bush folk live our lives wondering what awaits us around the next corner and it is this excitement: the unknown commodity, that makes a life in the bush so rewarding!

Blog and photos by Ben Coley

A long awaited encounter

The students waited a quite while before they had the privilege to view some of our most beautiful game. Jorge tells us more about their encounter:

“We woke up to a cold morning in the bush. It was 4am and after a quick tea and coffee we set off to the central game viewing area at Mashatu. We all snuggled under the blankets in the game drive vehicle and enjoyed a spectacular sunrise. We saw herds of impala, zebra and wildebeest along with a countless number guinea-fowls. Okwa, our instructor, focused his attention on the sightings mentioned over the radio.  Later that morning we parked the vehicle under a big tree and recharged our batteries with some cereal, coffee and tea and continued on our search for some big game.

Finally Okwa got wind of a leopard sighting not far from where we were. We arrived at the spot of the sighting to find two other game drive vehicles that beat us to the leopard. In the tree next to us, we found a stunning young female leopard. She was feeding on African wild cat. Suddenly she came down to get a half-eaten leg that she accidently dropped. It was such an intense moment. We had a leopard feeding right in front of us at barely 4 meters. She looked so relaxed while feeding that she paid almost no attention to us and the other two vehicles. Once she finished feeding she climbed back into the tree. We were so close to the leopard that we could hear her chewing her catch. We left the spot amazed and speechless.

As we left the sighting we got told that they found a lion sighting in another area. We have already been in Mashatu for almost month now, but apart from their roars at night and some tracks we did not have any luck with a lion sighting. Okwa said that he didn't know the area that well and we should not expect anything.

We managed to convince him to give it a try and to go and look for them. Our try was rewarded with a big pride of nine lions resting under a tree. For some of us it was the first time we saw lions in the wild. They were well fed and enjoyed a late morning nap. Some still had some blood from a kill and started grooming themselves. For the second time in less than one hour we were speechless and amazed with the beauty of two of Africa’s big cats. We set off back to camp and on our way back came across two hyenas and two secretary birds.

No doubt that this will be a day to remember. While we were driving back we also learned a very important lesson with regards to guiding: under promise and over deliver. Okwa knew that both the leopard and the lions would be there for a while, still he made us believe the opposite to lower our expectations and keep us thrilled during the entire wonderful day in Central Mashatu.”

A day full of surprises at Mashatu

Mashatu Game Reserve is home to the Mapungubwe rock, also known as Leeukop. It is believed that local Botswana chiefs were buried on this rock and that they are related to Botswana’s President. No one is allowed to climb this rock unless you ask permission from the President.

Okwa (Assistant instructor at Mashatu camp) “We were on our way to collect the students who was about to start the Safari Guide course at our Mashatu camp, when we witnessed a leopard on the road close to Mapungubwe rock also known as Leeukop rock.  This was only the beginning of sighting about to follow.

The following morning we left camp for a walk. As we started walking we heard vervet monkeys alarming. We decided to use the game drive vehicle instead of walking so that we can investigate what caused the alarm. At first we did not come across anything, and then we decided to start walking again. Not even 5 minutes later we found fresh leopard tracks on the ground and followed the tracks for about an hour before it disappeared into thick bushes and had to give up on the search.

We then went onto a ridge where we saw some elephants and decided to approach them. Everything was in our favour, from the wind to the escape route. We came as close as 100m from the elephants and enjoyed the sighting of a breeding herd from a distance.

Thereafter we heard rock hyrax alarming on Mapungubwe ridge. It could have been either be an eagle or a predator, so we went investigating. As we walked around the corner one of the students noticed the tail of a leopard, approximately 70m from us. We backed away to a safe distance where the students could admire and take photos of this magnificent animal.

This was an amazing sighting for all of us. It was an eventful day filled with great encounters “.